The Mistaken Grape

So as part of my attempt to "wine educate," and my friends' attempt to become "wine educated", they nominated me as their wine guru to run the weekly in-house wine tastings. I of course graciously accepted...probono.

The format is pretty relaxed, everyone brings a bottle or two of one specific varietal, from one particular region or country. The idea is to initially taste them all blind (wrapped and numbered in brown paper bags) and rate them according to liking. Then comes the big reveal, the labels along with their prices are exposed, and you find out if its the more expensive wine or the cheaper chicken that pleases your palate most.

Yesterday the group of us tasted 6 bottles, all 100% Carmenere, from different regions throughout Chile. There were actually 7 bottles, we accidentally ended up with 2 of the same. It happens.

For all of you that aren't that familiar with the red grape, Carmenere is considered the 6th "Bordeaux varietal" which on account of its difficulty to thrive in a cool climate, has been fased out of the Bordeaux blend we typically see today. Chile however has attained great celebrity in its ability to grow and produce beautiful, meaty, Carmenere and you'll be surprised at how little you need to spend. Here's another fun fact for ya, growers initially believed Carmenere was Merlot, as it's leaf shape and berry profile seemed almost identical to the naked eye. However after a series of genetic and apelographical analyses, they discovered that this grape was rather a distant relative of Merlot and in fact its own distict variety.

My ultimate food and wine pairing with this wine was, is, and will always be Lamb. There's something very symbiotic about the way the flavors, aromas, and mouthfeel harmonize with one and other. When I'm drinking Carmenere, I crave Lamb. The reverse is also true, a perfectly seared, grilled, stewed or barbecued piece of Lamb hasn't quite actualized its true potential, at least in my mind, until it's accompanied by a sultry glass of Carmenere. Don't call me crazy until you've tried it.

After tasting and careful evaluation, I ranked each of the wines and here are my top 5...moving from most favorite to least.

1. Carmen Gran Reserva '08 Carmenere, Apalta Chile. $25.90
As it turns out, by fault of my own tongue, the most expensive of the 6 wines unknowingly won me over. The nose was consumed by spicy nuances of Christmas cake and nutmeg shavings. Then came the luscious layer of black field berries and chocolate dipped cherries. It's moderate acid is beautifully balanced by notes of ripe raspberries which eventually falls into a seductive kiss of worn leather and the sweet return of dark chocolate. The fruit on this wine is superb, It screams lamb, and is worth every cent.

2. Antares '08 Carmenere. $9.00
A fantastic wine for the price. The nose is an amalgamation of spice, cedar, sweet cigar, and leather. A hint of varnish or finished wood lingers, but not enough to throw you off, it works well with the undertones of nuttiness and herbal qualities found on the palate. It's a complex wine for what you'd expect for under 10$. I found it intriguing.

3. Vina Chocolain '08 Carmenere, Maipo, Chile. $16.90
This wine has become a familiar shelf talker at your local wine or liquor store. It offers a slightly vegetal aroma of green pepper, along with sweet spices and nuances of black cherry. The palate thankfully delivers a more obvious blend of ripe fruit character, particularly red cherries and black berries. There is still that underlying note of herbaciousness but the medium acid, soft tannins and plumpness of fruit reminded me a lot of a Merlot; juicy and well rounded.

4. Mapu, Baron Phillipe de Rothchild '08 Reserva Carmenere. $15.10
I was not immediately struck by the nose on this wine, you almost have to dig, or else place your (clean) hand over your glass and slosh the hell out of it. It's a little tight upon opening but it does open up eventually, and when it does you're hit with overlapping waves of wild mushrooms, spice, leather, smoked cedar and a savory gaminess. The palate rings vivid of black cherry, cassis, and dried cranberry with a hint of black pepper which seems to linger. The bottle age on this wine is quite apparent, there is a quasi intricate bouquet as opposed to being a driven fruit bomb and evidence of some subtle development.


5. Casillero del Diablo '08 Reserva Carmenere, Rapel Valley, Chile $15.90
Yes I know, it's a major player on the shelf but it certainly didn't blow me away. I was actually surprised I had placed this wine so low on the totem pole. It wasn't terrible by any means but did lack the "Carmenere-ness" that I was expecting to find. The nose for me was consumed by a varnish-like aroma, along with olive brine, and cassis. On the palate I detected notes of peanut shell, leather, coffee and black cherry. I found it almost peaty with a very rustic profile. Not a loser but definitely not a winner in my books. That said, there were some tasters who rated it alot higher than I did. I'll let you be the judge.

To all my avid followers, haha, fret not!
My whirlwind of a life is a tad hectic at the moment with travels, work and now studying for my ISG exam. But I do promise I'll have things up and running again very soon.
A couple more weeks of hoopla and my regular jottings will return, with some new and exciting wine tales to share with you.
Ciao for now!

Clos du Soleil

A couple of weekends ago I had the privilege of meeting the owner of Clos du Soleil at a Saturday Village Wines tasting. Spencer Massie, a fairly new face to the B.C. wine industry has managed to preserve old world integrity without having to sacrifice new world style. The wines are reminiscent of a Bordeaux backbone, interwoven with the fleshy flair that is B.C.

The Clos du Soleil White 2007, at $26.92, is a blend of 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillion. The grapes were whole cluster pressed, fermented in stainless steel and then aged in neutral barrels for 12-18 months.
The nose on this wine is simply tantalizing. Aromatics of citrus, Meyer lemons, and grapefruit mingle with the rich aromas of tropical fruits, followed by an underlying layer of wet stone and very subtle petrol notes. The palate is consumed by tangerine and a bite of lemon meringue pie with a touch of spice. The mouth feel is smooth and soft along the edges. The fruit and acid are beautifully balanced, a complex profile with great concentration and definitive elegance. This is a fabulous Sauvignon Blanc and I'm relieved to say, not another watery glass of green. In fact it's quite the opposite.

The Clos du Soleil Red 2007, at $38.92 is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc. This wine has spent 18 months in 80% French and 10% American oak. The nose on this wine is vibrantly complex, expressing nuances of smokey cigar box, wet leather, ripe black cherries, cassis, red licorice, all sprinkled with a pinch of fresh cracked pepper, followed by a sweet vanilla finish. This wine proceeds to explode on your palate with flavors of red cherry, cassis, black berry all interwoven with spicy black pepper and cedar. The higher acid and medium (+) tannin in this wine is a sure candidate for your cellar. Don't be afraid to sit on it for 5-10 yrs. Like the great Bordeaux wines, this baby has been strategically constructed for ageing, if you so desire. Don't be discouraged however, decant at breakfast and you'll have a more elegant, approachable version to enjoy with your lamb shank or prime rib. This is a serious wine and should be taken on as such. It's a fantastic example of having both worlds in one glass. Who said you couldn't have your cake and eat it to. I'm calling it a BC Bordeaux.

Clos du Soleil is the paradigm of how quantity almost always does not equate to quality in the wine world. They focus on their white and red blends and with that have only produced 450 and 270 cases of the two, respectively. Low yields, greater concentration, higher quality wines. It's that simple.

Stay tuned for their up and coming full Bordeaux blend, their young Malbec and Petit Verdot vines are on their way. A Sauternes as well- a lil something I heard through the grapevine...pardon the pun :)

They're located in Keremeos, of the Similkameen Valley. For more info visit them at www.closdusoleil.ca

Never a fly in my Champagne!

Yes, as illustrated above, Veuve Cliquot is my Champagne of choice. I know there's other jems out there but my taste buds will not be privy to that information until I'm well on my way to Wine Stardom haha. That being said, there is something very exciting and endearing about honoring all those beautiful sparklings out there. Do NOT discredit bubbles because they originate from a place other than Champagne. Just to reiterate, anything effervescent produced outside the Champagne region of France cannot legally be referred to as Champagne. Rather it is titled sparkling, more precisely "Crémant" or "Mousseux" if the origin is French (bar Champagne).
As we head North East over to Germany and Austria, sparkling wines are known as Sekt.

One of my favorite Champagne alternatives is "Cava", Spain's excellent rendition of French Champagne. Why is it my favorite you ask? Being that is produced using the same "Traditional Method" as Champagne, the wine takes on that signature autolytic character from being aged on dead yeast cells. It's not as morbid as it sounds. The mouthwatering aromas of fresh baked bread, toasty caramel, and Bartlett pears, it takes my breath away with every waft. What could be more pleasurable than the endless flow of tiny bubbles, baked bread and the essence that is Champagne, all for the fraction of the price? Well I suppose drinking Champagne in Champagne would qualify but that's besides the point. It's Champagne on a budget!

Oh and let's not forget the Vihno Verde from Portugal, I know it's not fully effervescent but they do inject the wine with a dose of carbon dioxide after fermentation, producing a very light, refreshingly crisp wine that tingles your tongue with citrus notes and tiny bubbles. It's low in alcohol so you can get away with drinking a fashionably acceptable yet copious amount without falling on your face. So much fun! I tried one at my sommelier tasting class last night and I had visions of me frolicking in a sunlit field of lavendar...for whatever reason.
The name of the wine is Gazela Vihno Verde DOC and the best part, it's only $9.99! The perfect summer sipper!

BLOOM CONTINUED...Stag's Hollow

Another winery that I must mention for your own benefit is Stag's Hollow. I have met the winemaker and owner Larry now a few times and I have to say it's truly refreshing to speak to someone as humble as he is about what he does. I can tell that for each of his wines, he expresses a paternal affinity for, and proudly acknowledges each of their strengths and individuality. A proud father he should be.

The '08 Sauvignon Blanc is a real surprise. You're expecting a subdued aroma profile, citrus and wet stone coming from BC...well think again! The nose displays vivid expressions of tropical fruit, mango and a hint of pineapple, with underlying nuances of grapefruit and that characteristic petrol and touch of grassiness that we eagerly await for in a New Zealand Sauv Blanc. The palate is higher in acid which is well balanced by the predominately riper citrus and grapefruit flavors. It finishes with a lingering, very subtle grassy note. This wine is a beautiful example of Sauvignon Blanc, not for just a B.C. Sauv Blanc, it deserves far more Merritt and undoubtedly can compete with the cooler wine regions of New Zealand.

The '08 Chardonnay contains a hint of Muscat (2%), and has spent time in 40% American Oak. On the nose there are soft vanilla and honey aromas, working harmoniously with tangerine peel, Bartlet pear and stone fruit. On the palate the aromas transfuse into taste and you experience the sweet tang of tangerine and pear combined. The mouthfeel is rounded, with a slightly viscous weight that lightly coats the palate. This wine is a perfect example of using oak appropriately, it works not against but with the wine, helping to accentuate it's delicate profile.

The '06 Heritage Block 1 Cab Merlot contains approximately 48% Cab, 48% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. It has been aged in equal parts of American and French oak. This is probably the most approachable of the reds, meaning you can pop off the cork, pour, and drink. This red beauty is full of unrelenting cassis, coco and red licorice on the nose, with a touch of toastiness. The palate revisits the prominent cassis, along with black cherry and silky vanilla. It's nothing short of fabulous!

The '07 Cabernet Sauvignon contains 9% Syrah and has been aged 18 months in both American and French oak. The nose of this wine speaks loudly of red cherry, cranberry, black pepper, wet leather, and underlying meaty layers of game. The tannins are there but only moderate as they are softened by the ripe cassis, black cherry and soft cedar with hints of sweet vanilla.

The '06 Renaissance Merlot contains 5-8% Cabernet Sauvignon and the two varieties were co-fermented, meaning they were harvested at the same time and then vinified together. This accounts for alot of the structure that is apparent in this age worthy wine, as the Cab Sauv, receiving less hang time would be capable of providing the necessary backbone to support the meaty, lucious fruit offered by the Merlot.

This primary aromas of this wine first reminded me of Ribeena, the black currant fruit drink that my mom used to give me when a was a wee one. There are layers of baking spices, vanilla, and rose petal, all intermingled with ripe prunes and dried black fruits. The palate is juicy without being confused with Jammy. The Wine holds its structure on the palate and thus the fruit, although ripe is supple, not sloppy nor provocative. The mouth feel for this wine is best described as being almost chewable. Voluptuous Plums, blackberry, and spice, how could you go wrong? The wine is elegant and silky. Don't be afraid to lay this one down for a few years. It will only get better with age. IF you can't wait, like me, decant for breakfast and drink for dinner...YUM!

I have to say that at the moment, Stags Hallow has moved into my top 3 BC wineries to choose from. The whites are fresh, crisp and fruit apparent. The reds are remarkably delicious and hearty! How they're doing it, I don't know! Be sure to give them a whirl.

Bloom Tasting

Last Thursday I was given the opportunity to taste some of the new BC Spring releases. The trade tasting was titled Bloom and included a beautiful setup housed in the downtown Marriot hotel.

Each tasting table elegantly showcased their newest members, along with perfectly arranged goodie tables interspersed among them. Luscious strawberries, the size of my head, drenched in dark chocolate...I could go on all day about the food but for the sake of time, I better not. It's the wines that we care about!

I have to say, I was pretty diligent about keeping an accurate record of the wines I tried at this particular tasting. Let's just say my attendance was conditional on my commitment to spill my sensory guts, so to speak, haha.

I've decided that the most logical way to organize my thoughts is to go by winery.

Township 7- I'm starting with this one perhaps because I'm a little biased. I'm scheduled to meet their winemaker Brad Cooper in exactly 30 min. from now regarding a harvest/vit/cellarhand position. More on that later....

Let's begin with the whites shall we...
1. The '08 Un-oaked Chardonnay. This wine, as I have tried on several other occasions has become my unoaked Chard of choice (that and Grey Monk's unoaked Chard I really enjoy). The thing that I guess I really dig about this particular Chardonnay is that you can actually taste the grape. What a refreshing observation! Who knew Chardonnay could actually explode with lively fruit flavors?

When this grape is not completely suffocated by overwhelming oak, it does take on a very lovely and delicate profile, producing a wine that doesn't require the pulling of splinters from your mouth, Chateau 2X4 is one way to describe those woody butter bombs. Yes, as you can probably gather, I am sightly more partial to unoaked Chards but let me further clarify that I do enjoy a nicely balanced Chardonnay that has spent some time in either a French or American barrel. (The Meyer Family Winery in BC does a fantastic oaked Chard, the creamy mouthfeel and buttery nuances are well balanced by the high acid and stonefruit flavors in the wine and it works beautifully.)

When serious about entering the confines of the wine world, open exploration is essential and with that the realization that there is a time and place for everything is key! As I reiterate yet again, do not turn your nose up at any wine regardless of style, variety, or location. Didn't your mother ever read you Dr. Seuss's Green Eggs and Ham? Not obeying would be a mortal sin you know.

This Chardonnay is intensely aromatic, exploding with lively citrus notes which are complimented by a zing of green apple, pear and honey that on my palate seemed to be infused with a touch of lemon. This wine doesn't need a time or place, it's an exception to the rule, and can be enjoyed when and whenever.

2. The '08 Sauvignon Blanc is a tasty treat. On the nose you can expect the characteristic fruits of lemon, lime, orange and grapefruit which seem to make their way to your palate. It is crisp and refreshing with a hint of wet stone and live acidity. A fantastic, easy drinking spring or summer wine. Pair it with a soft, creamy chevre and you'll be pleasantly surprised!

3. 7 Blanc is a blended white which contains Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. There is something very intriguing about this wine. I found that as I continued to sniff and swirl, the sensory profile of the wine would continue to evolve in my glass. My initial observation on the nose was grapefruit and mandarin oranges, followed by a sweet hint of mango and pineapple. Then you find the disguised nuances or secondary aromas of canned mushrooms, herbs and earth. There is a subtle yet definite "funkiness" to this wine that leaves you dumb founded and wanting more. I asked Brad Cooper the winemaker the other day what that was about. He agreed with me and proudly attributed it to a mix of wild yeasts that were used in the fermentation. It's incredibly complex, concentrated and yummy. Great with an oil or cream based mushroom pasta!

4. The '06 Merlot is essentially a glass of cedar seasoned plums and blackberries. You will find hints of coco and spice and a smooth rounded finish that lingers for what seems like forever. It has spent 22 months in French oak without the intervention of being forced through a filter. It's full bodied and truly delicious.

5. The '06 Syrah offers a bouquet of prunes, plums, black cherries, seasoned with cracked black pepper. Ripe black fruit, a hint of spice and smoke sweep your tongue. This wine has spent some time in both French and American oak and is also unfiltered. The tannins have had time to relax so don't fret, this wine can and should be enjoyed now. Pair this with a juicy cut of beef or lamb.

6. The '07 Merlot Cabernet blend offers vivid nuances of cassis (blackcurrant), coco, vanilla, leather and cedar which can be attributed to the oak aging. Your palate explodes with flavors of cherries and blackberry pie! The Cabernet Sauvignon offers a structured backbone and the juicy Merlot provides a soft and meaty flesh. A perfect combination with a well marbled steak and a dollop of whipped blue cheese butter on top.

Oh I can now update you the Township 7 interview. So I met with the winemaker of Township 7 and was offered a harvest/cellar hand position in the Okanagan this summer as well as a viticulture position at their Langley sister winery/vineyard immediately. Ooh and I have another new job at the Sheraton Wall Centre Hotel as of last week. That makes 3...I hope I havn't bitten off more that I can chew!

Onto the next- Stoneboat Vineyards

1. '09 Pinot Gris- The nose on this wine is exuberant with citrus while the palate is dominated by lush tropical fruit and peach flavors. There is sufficient acid that uplifts this wine and we don't have the common issue of a flabby P Gris. It's quite the opposite in fact, with vibrant fruit and crisp minerality. It's complex and a true testament to the warm growing season of '09.

2. '07 Pinotage- This wine is beautifully deep in color as well as spice. It is gracious in the aromas of chocolate, cedar and plums. The palate is coaxed by the very soft mouthfeel, followed by an explosion of bold black fruit and a touch of vanilla and coco. This wine is elegant and sumptuous and will leave you wanting more. Unfortunately Pinotage is not a commonly grown grape in BC. (South Africa's national grape), so be sure to savor it when you have the opportunity, every drop is exquisite and very hard to come by.

3. The '08 Pinot Noir is one of my utmost favorite Pinots in BC. I think the reason why I'm so fond of it is because it demonstrates a very close rendition of an old-world style Pinot. I taste a Burgundian earthiness in this wine which is complimented by the flavors of luscious forest berries. There is a fine balance between the taste of terroir and the vibrant fruit this vine is consequently able to produce. I give it a 89 on Ash's wine rating scale :)

More to come...I'm off to the "Eat Vancouver" Food and Cooking Festival for some good eats and great wine!
Stay tuned for more on "Bloom", ciao for now.

The Uncorking of Cork

So what is the proper way to uncork a cork?

Much to my surprise, and no I didn't know this until my ISG level 1 instructor informed the class last yr. that you are to take your cork screw, make a smooth circular slice with the blade, just beneath the lip of the bottle. Don't be confused, this is not the first lip from the top but the second! Then in a continuous motion, using only one hand, with the other on the bottle, pull the knife upwards toward the cork and with that motion you will simultaneously remove the foil cap in a spiral-like shape.
Personally I find it easier to remove the foil cap by cutting beneath the uppermost rim or lip, but apparently this is a big No No in the Sommelier/wine service world because you risk the foil touching the cork. Which is weird because that has never once happened to me each time I refuse to conform to the "proper" method of uncorking. But whatever.

Next, insert the screw or worm as they like to call it, into the center of the cork, leaving approximately 2 curls of the worm exposed. Hitch the hinge onto the edge of the bottle opening and pull the screw out by the handle directly upward in a slow and fluid motion. Do not stop and re-screw! ha ha.

As soon as you feel the end of cork is about to reach the opening of the bottle, reduce your speed at which you pull, and very slowly, very carefully twist the cork out of the bottle. Essentially this twisting as opposed to rapid pulling will eliminate the "popping" sound...an automatic fail on your Sommelier exam. Who knew?!

Some of you may care to give this a go at home, some will stick with what they know, and others will continue to opt for screw cap. Whatever works best for you.
Happy Uncorking (or screwing)! :)